I noticed you no longer carry the popular brand of forage soybeans anymore in your wildlife seed products page why the switch to real world soybeans?

After using and selling forage soybeans for several years and having mixed to poor results with them we made the switch to a food plot soybean that better fits our area of the midwest where soybean grain production is crucial for wintering deer.  The roundup ready forage soybeans that I used to sell and plant on my own hunting property would indeed get fairly tall at 5ft which provided alot of summer browse forage for the deer however, good pod or grain production was equally important to me.  Forage soybeans took too long to mature and with our shorter growing season here in the upper midwest, these soybeans would produce BB sized grain at best which is unacceptable.  Real world soybeans mature sooner, grow tall, provide big leaves, have excellent grain production and lastly cost less than the roundup ready forage soybeans.     


Are real world soybeans roundup ready and what is the seeding rate when planting real world wildife seed soybeans in my food plot? 

Yes, real world soybeans are roundup ready for ease of weed control in your summer annual food plot and also come pre treated with a fungicide.  The recommended seeding rate for real world beans is 50lbs per acre if planted using a planter or drill and 75lbs per acre if broadcast spread followed by dragging or harrowing in to cover seed.     


When mixing winter rye seed and oat seed together for a fall planted food plot, what is a good seeding rate to use?

A winter rye and oat mixture is one of my favorite fall plot plantings for whitetail deer because variety always wins with whitetails.  With this fall seed mixture I always go heavy on the winter rye because unlike oats or at least in my area, the rye will overwinter and green back up in the spring vs the oats that will winter kill.  80-100lbs per acre of winter rye seed and 50-70lbs per acre of oat seed.  Jerry oats or just about any variety of spring oats will work great in this fall planting blend.  


What is the standalone seeding rate for planting winter rye in a deer food plot? 

 A bushel of winter rye seed weighs in at 56lbs so I try to shoot for 2 bushels or rye seed per acre in my deer plots.  100-120lbs per acre of winter rye seed in your whitetail food plot will yield great results! 


I didn't take any soil samples on my foodplot this year.  How much and what type of fertilizer should I use to grow big brassicas in my food plot? 

I always tell clients that a soil test doesn't cost it usually saves you some money.  Fertilizer is not cheap but to grow huge turnip bulbs and radishes the size of an elephant tusk requires ample amounts of fertilizer.  A good fertilizer recommendation for brassicas is to apply around 300lbs of triple 19 dry fertilizer at planting time.  Triple 19 fertilizer is composed mostly of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium.  So to break the fertilizer rates down further, of the 300lbs of dry fertilizer only 57# each of actual N, P and K are being applied since only 19lbs out of every 100lbs of fertilizer is usable nutrients. The rest is nothing but fill.  The above fertilizer recommendations will get your brassica plants off to a running start however after 30-40 days of growth or when the brassica plants are a foot tall I like to go back in the plot and topdress apply another round of nothing but Nitrogen fertilizer.  By adding another 100lbs of 46-0-0 per acre which is straight nitrogen will get the maximum amount of leafy tonnage and huge bulbs out of my brassica foodplot.      


Can I mix my clover and brassica seed together to plant in my food plot? I see food plot mixes all the time at the big box stores that have these two seeds combined.  

The problem with mixing these two types of seeds together is you have a very fast growing plant which is the brassica and a very slow growing clover plant.  More than likely the brassica plants will choke out the slow growing clover plants.  Another potential problem is both of these plant species have a totally different appetite for nutrients.  Brassicas love heavy amounts of nitrogen while clover uses very little. For me, getting the maximum tonnage and best usage out of each plant species that grows in my food plots, I usually try to keep them in their own spot.    


Due to time constraints this summer, my only opportunity to plant my brassica plot was in early June.  I know this is super early to be planting this type of seed but what will happen?  

Here in the midwest a good rule of thumb on the best time to plant short season brassicas would be the last week of July till the 1st and 2nd week of August.  Any later than that with a normal freeze in late September or early October and you won't get much for plant growth or tonnage. Generally brassicas that are planted too early will most likely get very stemmy and seed out before finally rotting right before hunting season.  You'll be able to tell when they begin to seed out as yellow flowers will begin to appear.  As with almost any planted forage that gets too mature, the stems begin to get very woody and are much less attractive to deer.   


I've planted a brassica mix consisting of purple top turnips and dwarf essex rape seed for two years now and the deer will not touch the stuff.  Do you have any suggestions on why the deer won't eat my brassicas?  

Getting deer to eat brassicas like you so often read about can be a tricky deal. It took the deer on my ranch 3 seasons to finally utilize the brassicas that I planted for them however I did add some groundhog or nitro radishes to the brassica mix on year 3 which they readily consumed first.  The radishes smell different than a purple top turnip and also stick much farther out of the ground which makes them easier to consume.  After walking my brassica food plot later that fall I noticed  just about every radish plant had been eaten first then the deer started in on the turnips.  I normally have standing corn and standing soybeans that are in close proximity to my brassica plantings and the corn and beans are tough for a turnip to compete with.  Normally what happens at least on my place is the clover and cereal grains get hit hard first followed  by the standing corn and beans with the brassicas bringing up the rear when everything else is picked over.  I talk with deer hunters all over the country on a regular basis and deer food plot brassica usage is a popular topic.  Give brassicas a try if you've never used them yet but I would highly recommend not planting your entire plot with them at least the first year until you see how the deer will utilize them.   


My Brassica food plot is being overtaken by broadleaf weeds this year.  Is there any herbicides available that will kill the broadleaves and not harm my brassica plants?    

I've yet to find a herbicide suitable for controlling broadleaf weeds in a brassica food plot for deer.  I normally get in the habit of spraying my plots with glyphosate a day or two before I lay down my brassica seed and have very little trouble with competing weeds since all the vegetation is now dead.      


My soils are powdery dry but with rain in the forecast I took a gamble and spread my brassica seed for my fall food plot.  As usual, the rain missed my farm and now there is no rain in the 10 day forecast.  How long can my brassica seed lay in the dry ground and still be ok?  

Your brassica seed can lay in the dry dirt for weeks and even months and will be just fine.  Once enough moisture has fallen and saturated the ground, the seeds will swell and will germinate.  I've actually broadcast purple top turnip seed very late in the fall and had the seeds not germinate until the following spring.  Since brassica seed is so small, scavengers such as small birds and turkeys will normally not bother it like they would with larger seeds such as wheat, rye, or oats.  


I missed my planting window for my brassica foodplot and now it's the middle of September.  Is there anything that I can plant this late in the year that will still provide some attraction for deer?

Yes, go to your local coop or seed supply store and pick up some winter rye and even a bag or two of oats if you can find those.  100#'s or winter rye seed per acre and add 50-70#'s of oats into the mix and you should be able to feed some deer.  The oats will grow faster and the rye will still germinate down into the lower 30's for temperature.  Oats will normally die off over the winter but the rye will green back up early in the spring and provide a high protein food source very early on for whitetails.   


Im new to planting food plots and I'm wanting to plant my first one this year. I have a 1 acre field to start out with.  Any suggestions on what to plant? 

I would start out with doing fall plots for the first year and also splitting the 1 acre field into half or even thirds and add some variety.  Many times due to time restraits and ease of use we just plant the whole field into the same forage.  By adding some diversity into this field, we can attract deer for a greater period of time which can increase our odds of harvesting a target buck.  A 10-12ft buffer strip around the perimeter of the field could be planted into a white perennial clover.  The remainder of the field could be split into half with one half being planted into a brassica mix such as purple top turnip/radishes/rape and the other half could be planted into a cereal grain mix consisting of winter rye and oats.  This food plot now has the plant diversity to attract deer for a longer period of time.  The greens from the clover and cereal grains will attract whitetails early in the season and the bulbs from the brassicas will feed the deer into the winter months.  


What can I spray on my clover foodplot to take care of competing grasses?

If your clover foodplot is beginning to be overtaken by grass, a clethodim based herbicide can be used to control grasses.  Arrow 2 EC and Agristar Clethodim 2 EC are two brands that both contain Clethodim that will only kill grasses and will not hurt your clover since it is a broadleaf.  Clethodim label rates are from 6-16oz per acre.  I generally go with 10oz per acre of clethodim and add 1qt of crop oil per acre into the mix.  Please keep in mind that Clethodim is a much slower acting herbicide than say roundup so it may take up to 2 weeks to see a noticeable kill. As with any herbicide product, the best control is used when the targeted species is controlled early on.  Grasses are much easier to control when they are from 2-4" tall.    


Ive tried mowing my clover food plot to get rid of grasses and weeds but they keep coming back. What else can I do?

Alot of times mowing will help cleanup a field of clover when weed pressure starts to increase usually in late summer.  Controlling grasses in your clover food plot by mowing usually never solves the problem as the grass just keeps growing back.  If you have access to a sprayer then a herbicide application will be your best control method.  My best clover plots have always came after an application of a herbicide called Raptor.  Raptor herbicide will control almost all grasses and weeds growing in your clover plot.  Keep in mind that Raptor will severely damage if not kill chicory. This is one of the reasons why I avoid chicory added to clover mixes as it limits what if any herbicide you can use on your clover.      


Where are you located at? 

Jungman Wildlife Supply is located in Atkinson , NE which is in north central Nebraska close to the scenic Niobrara River Valley which has become a renowned deer hunters paradise. Located 3.5 hours northwest of Omaha NE , or 3 hours north of North Platte NE. 

What types of food plot seed do you handle? 

Jungman Wildlife Supply currently carries a complete line of Antler King seed which includes Antler King Trophy Clover Mix, (4varieties clover, 1 variety chickory), Antler King Red Zone, (that contains forage soybeans, forage peas, and buckwheat), Antler King Honey Hole Blend, (comprised of rape and turnips), Antler King Mini-Max Blend, (minimum till clover mix), Antler King Fall Winter Spring Blend, (unique blend of wheat and winter peas), Besides handling Antler King seed, I carry an incredible new type of Round-Up Ready Forage Soybean from Eagle Seed Co. called the Wildlife Managers Mix, which includes 3 different varieties of Eagle Forage Soybeans that mature at different stages which have extremely high biomass material and extreme browsing tolerance. 

Do you sell any wildlife nutritional supplements or attractants? 

Yes, I have on hand at all times an 18% protein deer feed available in 50lb bags for supplemental feeding applications.  

Why should I plant an Antler King food plot on my property? 

I get many questions every year from people asking why they should plant a food plot on their property. Many people think that since agriculture crops are existent nearby, deer have all the food they need. Well, this may be partially true but what happens when the crops are harvested in the fall of the year and livestock are turned out to pick up the leftovers? The deer move on to find other sources of food elsewhere therefore leaving your property and potentially entering your neighbors property that still has a lush green Antler King food plot to graze on. To be a successful whitetail manager, you want to give that deer absolutely no reason at all to want to leave your piece of property. If your property contains heavy cover and water, a food source is the missing link to growing and successfully holding deer on your property 365 days a year. Antler King Trophy Products have been around for well over 20 years and will continually be the leader in wildlife nutritional products! From the Antler King Trophy Clover Mix for an early hi-protein food source to the Antler King Honey Hole Blend for the late season, we’ve got you covered! 

This is my first attempt at planting a food plot do you have any tips to make it successful? 

Yes, first and foremost use the Antler King Instant Ph soil test kits and test your soil. This is a very common mistake that is left out of the process and one of the more important ones. You are striving to get to a soil Ph of 7.0 or as close to that as possible. Your plants would still grow with a lower Ph but would be stunted and would not develop and produce the optimum tonnage that they would have with a higher soil Ph level. This is a very important issue in areas where deer numbers are higher than the lands carrying capacity and what the end result would be is that your food plot usually gets mowed off to the ground before it even has a chance to get started growing. The closer you can get to that number of 7.0 the better your stand of Antler King Trophy Clover or other Antler King Seed Blends will grow and perform to its maximum ability. Another problem that occurs is getting good seed to soil contact. You can’t just go out into an old overgrown field and start spreading seed thinking it will grow well. Seed to soil contact is where it all starts! Third, and by far the most common and avoidable mistake comes during the actual planting process after the seeds are spread. This common mistake occurs when you go to cover the seed up and end up burying it so deep that it doesn’t have enough energy to sprout through 2 in of soil. If you ever looked at a clover seed before you will notice just how tiny they are. Therefore, burying clover or any other type of Antler King seed more than ½’’ under the soil is just asking for a complete failure from your food plot. Tip- When preparing to plant keep a close eye on the weather and ideally a nice gentle rain shortly after planting will yield exceptional results. Not only will this speed up the germination process but any seed left on top of the ground exposed, will get lightly pressed into the soil by the raindrops and covered up. 


I don’t have any expensive equipment to plant a food plot with, what could I use? 

You don’t have to own big expensive tractors or disks to plant a food plot. Now days most people own or have access to an atv. Atv’s are a great workhorse for putting in a food plot. The Antler King Sodbuster atv disk is a very popular option for those wanting to do food plot tillage work with an atv. If you don’t have access to an atv, a stiff tined hand rake will work fine on smaller food plots from a ¼ acre or so. Your main goal is to work up the soil enough to get the seed to touch the soil. Another great item for spreading the seed on smaller plots is a hand seeder that you crank with your hand while walking around the plot. I have successfully used for many years an atv 200lb pull behind cart spreader to spread seed with, that can be purchased for a couple hundred bucks. Also, when it comes to lightly covering the seeds, you don’t necessarily have to own an expensive cultipacker. A small piece of chain link fence or even an old bed spring pulled behind your atv would work well for lightly covering up the seed. Do not use your disk! 


How many acres of food plots should I plant on my property and what should I plant? 

A good general rule of thumb is to plant 10% of your property into food plots. It’s a good idea to have some knowledge of what kind of deer densities are existent on your property. If you run out of food on your property you might as well wish your deer farewell as they leave to seek out other food sources. As I mentioned earlier we want to give the deer absolutely no reason to want to leave your piece of property. So for instance your property is 80 acres, I would highly suggest planting 8 acres or 10% of your property into food plots. As far as types of Antler King Seed to plant, I generally recommend planting 60% of you total 8 acres which figures out to be about 5 acres into an Antler King high protein perennial such as Antler King Trophy Clover Mix or Antler King Mini-Max for your early spring and summer antler growing needs. The other 3 acres would be planted into a late fall or winter food source comprised of Antler King Honey Hole Blend, Antler King Red Zone, or Antler King Fall, Winter, Spring Blend. To sum things up, in the springtime we are focusing on planting high protein forage to maximize not only antler development in bucks but to increase doe lactation which in turn produces healthier fawns. In the late summer and early fall is the time to plant the higher energy plants to help deer get ready for winter but also to help post rut stressed bucks put lost weight back on. 

80 total acres ÷ 10% food plots = 8 acres 

60% of 8 acres in hi-protein perennials = about 5 acres 

40% of 8 acres in hi-energy plots = about 3 acres 

What makes Antler King Trophy Deer Mineral better than the “cheaper” brands? 

Take a look at the ingredients label. Most of the cheaper deer minerals on the market today are loaded with salt and elevated levels of calcium which are two of the least expensive ingredients in the mix. Phosphorous being the most expensive ingredient in a deer mineral should make up at least 6% of the total along with the other major mineral that include sulfur, magnesium, and potassium along with all the trace minerals including zinc, copper, selenium and vitamins A, D, and E. Antler King Trophy Deer Mineral was developed over 20 years ago and still to this day is America ’s #1 top selling deer mineral. 

What is the difference between Antler King Plot Max and Antler King Jolt Fertilizer? 

Plot max is not a type of fertilizer. Basically it is more of a soil conditioner that helps your soil to perform at its peak performance to grow quality high tonnage forage. Plot max will spike Ph levels of your soil while also increasing available organic matter. Plot max has the ability to retain soil moisture thus allowing your food plots to thrive on less than ideal amounts of rainfall. Plot Max can be sprayed on your food plot prior to planting or on established plots. On the flip side Antler King Jolt Fertilizer is only sprayed onto the plants stems and leaves after they reach a height of at least 3”. Jolt Fertilizer is much better than dry granular fertilizers that can burn the plants if not broke down soon enough by rain. Jolt is a cost-effective way to maximize the quality and quantity of high protein forage that your Antler King food plot will produce. 

What is the seeding rate on Eagle Forage Soybeans and how do I plant them? 

When row planting Eagle Forage Soybeans, the recommended seeding rate is 50lbs per acre. If broadcasting the Eagle Forage Soybeans, the recommended seeding rate is 75lbs per acre. When planting soybeans close attention to the soils moisture content is critical to ensure that a “crusting” affect doesn’t occur. Generally when this happens the topsoil becomes hard and the soybean cannot emerge mainly caused by planting when conditions were too wet. In most conditions about an inch below the surface is an ideal planting depth. 

What are some of the advantages of Eagle Seed Roundup Ready Soybeans? 

Eagle Forage Soybeans have blown away the competition when it comes down to extreme biomass, browsing tolerance, and drought resistance, which I feel is one of the more important ones living here in the unpredictable weather patterns of Nebraska. Not only are Eagle Forage Soybeans able to reach heights of up to 84”, they boast an extremely high protein content in their leaves and stay greener longer than conventional soybeans. The ease of Eagle Forage Soybeans being Roundup ready tolerant means keeping your plots clean from weeds and grasses also. Another great quality of Eagle Forage Soybeans is the amount of pods that each plant can produce which it a great whitetail magnet for late season hunts. 

What types of food plot planting equipment do you sell? 

Jungman Wildlife Supply sells everything from the popular Antler King Sodbuster atv disc to custom built planters and cultipackers. I can build and design just about anything you can dream up for planting food plots. 

How big of an area do you ship your products to? 

Our popular line of food plot planters are now sold and shipped globally while are food plot seed sales are sold all over the entire United States.